Glaciers, Al Gore, Cabalgatas and Meat

The past two days have been a mixture of heart breaking, beautiful and breath taking. Here goes: We have been staying in Bariloche at the Periko Hostel. We arrived after a 22 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires and wandered around the town. We drank mate and signed up for the trekking tour leaving the next day. For those who don´t know, Mate is a tea which people share in the afternoons. The closest I can equiate it to is sharing a joint. Its very communal and calming and also brings the same bond as the kiss on the cheek greeting. It just breaks the awkwardness.

That night after returning from a dinner of Argentina BBQ (meat meat and more meat) and a bottle of wine and a bottle of beer between two of us, some people in the hostel were watching An Inconvient Truth. I had never seen it, knowing that it would have upset me especially if I saw it alone. So drunk and determined, I sat down and watched. It left me upset with the United States and with the world. I just feel like we can do so much but are moving so slowly.

The next day, we went on a three trek tour with about 15 other people, a few Americans, some Mexicans but mainly Argentians. The first two stops were waterfalls. Pretty but nothing breath taking. The treks were simple and easy and I was starting to feel like we wasted some money. But then we hiked to a glacier. It was awe inspiring. You could hear the ice falling. It sounded like Thunder. There was the glacier on the top of ¨Thunder Mountain¨(get the name?) and there were black glaciers (ice which had refrozen with dirt and rocks) melting in the river below.

The glacier had receeded miles in just the 13 years the guide had been giving tours. It was heart breaking. I vowed right there to take a stand on being green. I can´t demand anything from anyone else but I can make a change in myself. Before I have been convinential being green (Nice going with that title, Al) and now I am going to actively make decisions based on the environment. I guess everyone should just sit and watch a glacier disappear...

That night, we had dinner with two lawyers from SF we met at our hostel. Its funny how when traveling friendships are made so quickly. We just chatted in the lobby and then made plans for dinner. It was so easy.

We made plans to go horse back riding for today. Since its the beginning of the season (end of ski season and start of spring and summer activities) and low tourist season, no one was doing tours. We ended up going with a small company the hostel didn´t really know and paying for a private all day tour.

The cabalgata tour turned out to be run by a family descended from one of the founding fathers? of the town. They owned a huge ranch and valley with cows, horses and bees. We were greeted by a woman in a tiny log cabin with a wood burning stove and a man who was the definition of gancho. The people were really friendly and gave us helmets, half chaps and an extra jacket for me.

My horse was an ex-race horse, which I felt was a good sign. Marcy had a horse half the size of mine (the running theme, is this country is tiny). Because the season just started and the snow had just melted. The horses still had long coats and the trail was mostly mud. We made our way up a mountain where we could see the glaciers, ski mountains, lake nuapi and the lower valley. It was...unforgettable and undescribable.

On our way down, we were able to run a bit which was incredible. I had forgotten the joy was racing on horseback. We returned to the little house to find a table set with home made bread, salad and wine. The men were cooking Asado (not sure how to spell this and too tired to look it up) in an open fire pit. The BBQ was the best I have ever had. Better than Ruben´s. The meat just melted in my mouth. Marcy conversed with the family while I listened. I could understand and follow the conversation. My proudest moment was understanding ¨Move the water bottle¨ before anyone else. Spanish is beginning to ¨fit¨in my ears and I can relax while my brain processes the language. But it was also nice to be able to sit back without pressure to contribute to a conversation.

A note just to make my Dad jealous: the meal ended with home made flan with ducle de leche with home made candied sugar on top.

The second half of the ride was led by the Gancho. We rode in two the valley and herded home the cows. We were able to run more in the valley because the footing was better. So Marcy and I were yelling at cows while riding horses into rivers and on a beautiful valley.

Once the cows were home, we went into the valley and ran. It was lightly raining and we were slashing mud and water while the horses galloped. Dogs ran underneath the horses. The day ended with a rainbow (I´m not joking). It felt like a romance novel or a Bonte novel or both. I have never been so amazed by the surroundings and happy to be riding.

Then we returned to house for a homemade tea with jams, torta frites, cake and mate. Again we sat around with the family and discussed everything from soccer to the political situation in Cuba. Marcy and I both felt like part of the family and I felt a bit jealous of their lifestyle.

Exhasted, we arrived back at the hostel and showered. Then wandered around Barihocle to buy bus tickets for the next location and a few warmer clothes and food. Both of us are pretty destroyed. I faired a bit better than Marcy since I have more riding experience and was able to move with the horse instead of bounce against him.

Now I´m covered in icey hot and probably should go to bed. We have white water rafting in the morning. Its the start of the season tomorrow so the water is going to be freezing. I hope I don´t fall in.

As soon as I get to Buenos Aires, I should have pictures to share. VP debates tomorrow! And I hear Obama is ahead in the polls. Also the economy is apparently destroyed. Anything else I should know?