After a 17 hour ride on an overnight bus, we have arrived in Puerto Madryn, a haven for marine life including whales, sea lions and penguins. Marcy is off to go scuba diving with the sea lions and while I do have a love for Seabert, I decided not to go on the ¨pseudo-dive¨since it didn´t seem worth the money.
So I am spending the morning renting a bike and biking the cold, freezing beach.
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Thursday, October 2, 2008
1st Day of White Water Rafting Season
We went white water rafting yesterday on the first day it is even possible to go on the river. That means the water was freezing, cloudy because of the ice still melting below and about six meters higher than the river is in summer (November to February). Marcy said the water reminded her of Artic Ice Gatoraid, so I guess they did their market research.
Our group consided of an mildly insane Italian, two kiwis, a solo travelor from London and a couple from England where were traveling until their money ran out. Our guides had that same look that any outdoor adventure guide has: fit, tan and crazed. I mean, you have to enjoy taking a bunch of tourists out on a river every day and never know how good they are at rafting.
The group was really friendly and all knew each other from another hostel. We got picked up and driven to the river. We were actually rafting to the boarder of Argentina and Chile so we had to fill out custom forms in case we fell out and went down river into Chile.
We started rafting in the rain so essentially every part of us was drenced before we even started but once we started rafting, I never felt cold. Our group was pretty uncoordinated, especially the Italian but we made it through the rapids fine but I am not sure how much of that was luck.
One rapid, named Scream, Cry and Go Left, had a 50% chance of us flipping. It included three huge waves and a whirlpool, which would have dragged someone down 200 meters and the popped them up against some rocks. The raft went almost verticle and if we had been an inch off the wave we would have flipped. The guides were yelling at each other in spanish about how close we were to flipping. In the end, only the Italian fell out. Marcy almost did except Liz (one of the Kiwi´s) caught her.
The guides included one directing the boat and instructing us and one safety who was in a tiny kayak. The safety had to go ahead of us and make sure the rapids were free of branches and other obstructions. And was also able to help if someone fell in. He had a much harder job since he was flipping and turning into whirlpools in his tiny kayak. I love kayaking and am interested in rapid kayaking. But I am not sure how you start since I wouldn´t have wanted to be alone in a kayak for that trip.
The trip ended with Asado (Argentina BBQ), wine and beer bought by the Italian (price of falling in). Then someone bought wine for the van ride home; it was definitely my first time drinking in a car.
We ended up meeting up with the rafting group later than night. The couple is going to Puerto Madryn on our same bus. I tried the Argentian national liquor which tastes like menthol and a stray dog got attached to me in a bar and ended up following me all night.
Today, Marcy and I are pretty exhasted. I bought new hiking boots and wandered around town. I am looking forward to a 17 hour bus ride to sleep and read and relax. Puerto Madryn is going to be pretty chill. Marcy knows the guy who owns all of the ecotourism in the area so we might get some inside tours of whale and penguin watching. Some guy at the other hostel told us about renting kayaks and being in the middle of the ocean with about 50 whales. So I might have a Pinoccino story to tell.
Our group consided of an mildly insane Italian, two kiwis, a solo travelor from London and a couple from England where were traveling until their money ran out. Our guides had that same look that any outdoor adventure guide has: fit, tan and crazed. I mean, you have to enjoy taking a bunch of tourists out on a river every day and never know how good they are at rafting.
The group was really friendly and all knew each other from another hostel. We got picked up and driven to the river. We were actually rafting to the boarder of Argentina and Chile so we had to fill out custom forms in case we fell out and went down river into Chile.
We started rafting in the rain so essentially every part of us was drenced before we even started but once we started rafting, I never felt cold. Our group was pretty uncoordinated, especially the Italian but we made it through the rapids fine but I am not sure how much of that was luck.
One rapid, named Scream, Cry and Go Left, had a 50% chance of us flipping. It included three huge waves and a whirlpool, which would have dragged someone down 200 meters and the popped them up against some rocks. The raft went almost verticle and if we had been an inch off the wave we would have flipped. The guides were yelling at each other in spanish about how close we were to flipping. In the end, only the Italian fell out. Marcy almost did except Liz (one of the Kiwi´s) caught her.
The guides included one directing the boat and instructing us and one safety who was in a tiny kayak. The safety had to go ahead of us and make sure the rapids were free of branches and other obstructions. And was also able to help if someone fell in. He had a much harder job since he was flipping and turning into whirlpools in his tiny kayak. I love kayaking and am interested in rapid kayaking. But I am not sure how you start since I wouldn´t have wanted to be alone in a kayak for that trip.
The trip ended with Asado (Argentina BBQ), wine and beer bought by the Italian (price of falling in). Then someone bought wine for the van ride home; it was definitely my first time drinking in a car.
We ended up meeting up with the rafting group later than night. The couple is going to Puerto Madryn on our same bus. I tried the Argentian national liquor which tastes like menthol and a stray dog got attached to me in a bar and ended up following me all night.
Today, Marcy and I are pretty exhasted. I bought new hiking boots and wandered around town. I am looking forward to a 17 hour bus ride to sleep and read and relax. Puerto Madryn is going to be pretty chill. Marcy knows the guy who owns all of the ecotourism in the area so we might get some inside tours of whale and penguin watching. Some guy at the other hostel told us about renting kayaks and being in the middle of the ocean with about 50 whales. So I might have a Pinoccino story to tell.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Glaciers, Al Gore, Cabalgatas and Meat
The past two days have been a mixture of heart breaking, beautiful and breath taking. Here goes: We have been staying in Bariloche at the Periko Hostel. We arrived after a 22 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires and wandered around the town. We drank mate and signed up for the trekking tour leaving the next day. For those who don´t know, Mate is a tea which people share in the afternoons. The closest I can equiate it to is sharing a joint. Its very communal and calming and also brings the same bond as the kiss on the cheek greeting. It just breaks the awkwardness.
That night after returning from a dinner of Argentina BBQ (meat meat and more meat) and a bottle of wine and a bottle of beer between two of us, some people in the hostel were watching An Inconvient Truth. I had never seen it, knowing that it would have upset me especially if I saw it alone. So drunk and determined, I sat down and watched. It left me upset with the United States and with the world. I just feel like we can do so much but are moving so slowly.
The next day, we went on a three trek tour with about 15 other people, a few Americans, some Mexicans but mainly Argentians. The first two stops were waterfalls. Pretty but nothing breath taking. The treks were simple and easy and I was starting to feel like we wasted some money. But then we hiked to a glacier. It was awe inspiring. You could hear the ice falling. It sounded like Thunder. There was the glacier on the top of ¨Thunder Mountain¨(get the name?) and there were black glaciers (ice which had refrozen with dirt and rocks) melting in the river below.
The glacier had receeded miles in just the 13 years the guide had been giving tours. It was heart breaking. I vowed right there to take a stand on being green. I can´t demand anything from anyone else but I can make a change in myself. Before I have been convinential being green (Nice going with that title, Al) and now I am going to actively make decisions based on the environment. I guess everyone should just sit and watch a glacier disappear...
That night, we had dinner with two lawyers from SF we met at our hostel. Its funny how when traveling friendships are made so quickly. We just chatted in the lobby and then made plans for dinner. It was so easy.
We made plans to go horse back riding for today. Since its the beginning of the season (end of ski season and start of spring and summer activities) and low tourist season, no one was doing tours. We ended up going with a small company the hostel didn´t really know and paying for a private all day tour.
The cabalgata tour turned out to be run by a family descended from one of the founding fathers? of the town. They owned a huge ranch and valley with cows, horses and bees. We were greeted by a woman in a tiny log cabin with a wood burning stove and a man who was the definition of gancho. The people were really friendly and gave us helmets, half chaps and an extra jacket for me.
My horse was an ex-race horse, which I felt was a good sign. Marcy had a horse half the size of mine (the running theme, is this country is tiny). Because the season just started and the snow had just melted. The horses still had long coats and the trail was mostly mud. We made our way up a mountain where we could see the glaciers, ski mountains, lake nuapi and the lower valley. It was...unforgettable and undescribable.
On our way down, we were able to run a bit which was incredible. I had forgotten the joy was racing on horseback. We returned to the little house to find a table set with home made bread, salad and wine. The men were cooking Asado (not sure how to spell this and too tired to look it up) in an open fire pit. The BBQ was the best I have ever had. Better than Ruben´s. The meat just melted in my mouth. Marcy conversed with the family while I listened. I could understand and follow the conversation. My proudest moment was understanding ¨Move the water bottle¨ before anyone else. Spanish is beginning to ¨fit¨in my ears and I can relax while my brain processes the language. But it was also nice to be able to sit back without pressure to contribute to a conversation.
A note just to make my Dad jealous: the meal ended with home made flan with ducle de leche with home made candied sugar on top.
The second half of the ride was led by the Gancho. We rode in two the valley and herded home the cows. We were able to run more in the valley because the footing was better. So Marcy and I were yelling at cows while riding horses into rivers and on a beautiful valley.
Once the cows were home, we went into the valley and ran. It was lightly raining and we were slashing mud and water while the horses galloped. Dogs ran underneath the horses. The day ended with a rainbow (I´m not joking). It felt like a romance novel or a Bonte novel or both. I have never been so amazed by the surroundings and happy to be riding.
Then we returned to house for a homemade tea with jams, torta frites, cake and mate. Again we sat around with the family and discussed everything from soccer to the political situation in Cuba. Marcy and I both felt like part of the family and I felt a bit jealous of their lifestyle.
Exhasted, we arrived back at the hostel and showered. Then wandered around Barihocle to buy bus tickets for the next location and a few warmer clothes and food. Both of us are pretty destroyed. I faired a bit better than Marcy since I have more riding experience and was able to move with the horse instead of bounce against him.
Now I´m covered in icey hot and probably should go to bed. We have white water rafting in the morning. Its the start of the season tomorrow so the water is going to be freezing. I hope I don´t fall in.
As soon as I get to Buenos Aires, I should have pictures to share. VP debates tomorrow! And I hear Obama is ahead in the polls. Also the economy is apparently destroyed. Anything else I should know?
That night after returning from a dinner of Argentina BBQ (meat meat and more meat) and a bottle of wine and a bottle of beer between two of us, some people in the hostel were watching An Inconvient Truth. I had never seen it, knowing that it would have upset me especially if I saw it alone. So drunk and determined, I sat down and watched. It left me upset with the United States and with the world. I just feel like we can do so much but are moving so slowly.
The next day, we went on a three trek tour with about 15 other people, a few Americans, some Mexicans but mainly Argentians. The first two stops were waterfalls. Pretty but nothing breath taking. The treks were simple and easy and I was starting to feel like we wasted some money. But then we hiked to a glacier. It was awe inspiring. You could hear the ice falling. It sounded like Thunder. There was the glacier on the top of ¨Thunder Mountain¨(get the name?) and there were black glaciers (ice which had refrozen with dirt and rocks) melting in the river below.
The glacier had receeded miles in just the 13 years the guide had been giving tours. It was heart breaking. I vowed right there to take a stand on being green. I can´t demand anything from anyone else but I can make a change in myself. Before I have been convinential being green (Nice going with that title, Al) and now I am going to actively make decisions based on the environment. I guess everyone should just sit and watch a glacier disappear...
That night, we had dinner with two lawyers from SF we met at our hostel. Its funny how when traveling friendships are made so quickly. We just chatted in the lobby and then made plans for dinner. It was so easy.
We made plans to go horse back riding for today. Since its the beginning of the season (end of ski season and start of spring and summer activities) and low tourist season, no one was doing tours. We ended up going with a small company the hostel didn´t really know and paying for a private all day tour.
The cabalgata tour turned out to be run by a family descended from one of the founding fathers? of the town. They owned a huge ranch and valley with cows, horses and bees. We were greeted by a woman in a tiny log cabin with a wood burning stove and a man who was the definition of gancho. The people were really friendly and gave us helmets, half chaps and an extra jacket for me.
My horse was an ex-race horse, which I felt was a good sign. Marcy had a horse half the size of mine (the running theme, is this country is tiny). Because the season just started and the snow had just melted. The horses still had long coats and the trail was mostly mud. We made our way up a mountain where we could see the glaciers, ski mountains, lake nuapi and the lower valley. It was...unforgettable and undescribable.
On our way down, we were able to run a bit which was incredible. I had forgotten the joy was racing on horseback. We returned to the little house to find a table set with home made bread, salad and wine. The men were cooking Asado (not sure how to spell this and too tired to look it up) in an open fire pit. The BBQ was the best I have ever had. Better than Ruben´s. The meat just melted in my mouth. Marcy conversed with the family while I listened. I could understand and follow the conversation. My proudest moment was understanding ¨Move the water bottle¨ before anyone else. Spanish is beginning to ¨fit¨in my ears and I can relax while my brain processes the language. But it was also nice to be able to sit back without pressure to contribute to a conversation.
A note just to make my Dad jealous: the meal ended with home made flan with ducle de leche with home made candied sugar on top.
The second half of the ride was led by the Gancho. We rode in two the valley and herded home the cows. We were able to run more in the valley because the footing was better. So Marcy and I were yelling at cows while riding horses into rivers and on a beautiful valley.
Once the cows were home, we went into the valley and ran. It was lightly raining and we were slashing mud and water while the horses galloped. Dogs ran underneath the horses. The day ended with a rainbow (I´m not joking). It felt like a romance novel or a Bonte novel or both. I have never been so amazed by the surroundings and happy to be riding.
Then we returned to house for a homemade tea with jams, torta frites, cake and mate. Again we sat around with the family and discussed everything from soccer to the political situation in Cuba. Marcy and I both felt like part of the family and I felt a bit jealous of their lifestyle.
Exhasted, we arrived back at the hostel and showered. Then wandered around Barihocle to buy bus tickets for the next location and a few warmer clothes and food. Both of us are pretty destroyed. I faired a bit better than Marcy since I have more riding experience and was able to move with the horse instead of bounce against him.
Now I´m covered in icey hot and probably should go to bed. We have white water rafting in the morning. Its the start of the season tomorrow so the water is going to be freezing. I hope I don´t fall in.
As soon as I get to Buenos Aires, I should have pictures to share. VP debates tomorrow! And I hear Obama is ahead in the polls. Also the economy is apparently destroyed. Anything else I should know?
Monday, September 29, 2008
Bariloche
Marcy and I took a 20 hour bus ride to Bariloche which is the Lake District in Argentina. The bus was a luxury ride complete with movies and chairs that fold out into beds. Unfortunately the chair-beds were designed for short people so I´m a bit cramped from the unfolding.
The lake district is beautiful and we have already signed up for trekking trips and horseback riding. I´m excited for some adventure.
Update on the warm clothes-I found a place that hand makes coats for about 40 dollars US. So I am set.
Alright more later but we are off to buy food for tomorrow.
The lake district is beautiful and we have already signed up for trekking trips and horseback riding. I´m excited for some adventure.
Update on the warm clothes-I found a place that hand makes coats for about 40 dollars US. So I am set.
Alright more later but we are off to buy food for tomorrow.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
To the South!
Marcy (who is on the mend) and I are headed on a 20 hour bus ride to the South to hike, kayak, horseback ride, safari and more. I've discovered that I didn't pack for hiking at all. So I purchased some waterproof pants and a fleece scarf and I found my first Argentina man over six feet tall. They exist!
My Spanish comprehension is already improving. I can understand signs and can successfully ask "how much?". I just don't understand the response...
I've decided the culture here is based on a college students life. Party all night, get up at four, eat nothing but meat and potatoes. Nap. Look mildly disheveled and drink wine with cereal. I could get used to this, I think.
Alright time to turn off Urban Diana and turn on Cowboy Diana. Wish me luck with the penguins.
My Spanish comprehension is already improving. I can understand signs and can successfully ask "how much?". I just don't understand the response...
I've decided the culture here is based on a college students life. Party all night, get up at four, eat nothing but meat and potatoes. Nap. Look mildly disheveled and drink wine with cereal. I could get used to this, I think.
Alright time to turn off Urban Diana and turn on Cowboy Diana. Wish me luck with the penguins.
Friday, September 26, 2008
Planes and Radiotaxis
I began traveling yesterday morning at 4 am after staying up all night packing and panic-ing. Then spent seven hours in the Washington DC airport, where I discussed politics and drank beers with a sax player named Josh.
Then I boarded my first international flight in over two years. I missed them: individual TVs, safety messages in two languages and meals! I spent most of the flight sleeping and watching the tail end of movies. Halfway through, we had so much turbulence that I thought we were going to die. I made my peace and went back to sleep only to find us landing in Buenos Aires.
Marcy met me at the airport. She is unfortunately sick as sick can be with a mouth full of cold sores. Not great for sleeping next to or depending on her to translate for me. We were supposed to leave for the south tomorrow but we have delayed the trip until Sunday. When I hope she will be better, or else, I'll be lonely on our hikes.
Her family is amazing. They are housing me and sweet and friendly and trying to teach me Spanish. I have never wanted to know Spanish more. It is so frustrating because I can understand so much. But I can barely speak. I'm limited to si, no, gracis and a few other words.
Argentina and I instantly hit it off. Its better than Europe. I wish I could understand more. They have Kinder eggs so I'm happy.
The drivers are crazy. The traffic lights go from red to yellow then green. How can you not want to reve your engine and speed after a countdown like that. The people are mainly friendly although I've been to shy to do more than say Hello.
Then I boarded my first international flight in over two years. I missed them: individual TVs, safety messages in two languages and meals! I spent most of the flight sleeping and watching the tail end of movies. Halfway through, we had so much turbulence that I thought we were going to die. I made my peace and went back to sleep only to find us landing in Buenos Aires.
Marcy met me at the airport. She is unfortunately sick as sick can be with a mouth full of cold sores. Not great for sleeping next to or depending on her to translate for me. We were supposed to leave for the south tomorrow but we have delayed the trip until Sunday. When I hope she will be better, or else, I'll be lonely on our hikes.
Her family is amazing. They are housing me and sweet and friendly and trying to teach me Spanish. I have never wanted to know Spanish more. It is so frustrating because I can understand so much. But I can barely speak. I'm limited to si, no, gracis and a few other words.
Argentina and I instantly hit it off. Its better than Europe. I wish I could understand more. They have Kinder eggs so I'm happy.
The drivers are crazy. The traffic lights go from red to yellow then green. How can you not want to reve your engine and speed after a countdown like that. The people are mainly friendly although I've been to shy to do more than say Hello.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Timeline
Here's my September Timeline:
4 days until Mom and Will's birthday BBQ
10 days until Portland, OR and Nick and Megan's wedding
17 days until Vegas and Christine, Leah, Liz and Jeff reunion
21 days until CSS and Tilly and the Wall concert
22 days until my 23rd birthday
23 days until 6 weeks in Argentina
4 days until Mom and Will's birthday BBQ
10 days until Portland, OR and Nick and Megan's wedding
17 days until Vegas and Christine, Leah, Liz and Jeff reunion
21 days until CSS and Tilly and the Wall concert
22 days until my 23rd birthday
23 days until 6 weeks in Argentina
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